Saturday, June 26, 2010

The Start of North



Short Version:
We escape from Cabo and Cabo, and become the youngest, slimmest non-locals at a fishing town

Long Version:
Started the day attempting to escape from San Jose del Cabo. Like La Paz, easier said than done, but soon enough we were back in Cabo San Lucas at the store we'd had recommended to us as the best place to buy "things." And many things there were, from person-high wooden faces to tiny plastic Day-of-the-Dead figures. Furniture, glassware, welded metalgoods and bins of tiles gave way to massive stonework out in the courtyard. Very little of it was what we were looking for, though, so we swung by Costco instead. It was air-conditioned, but again largely devoid of items of interest (except the pizza and churros on the patio outside).

So we hit the road east, past the massive resorts and luxury hotels, past the golf courses and the beautiful beaches, past San Jose del Cabo, then northwards and inland, past the Tropic of Cancer monument, and then we carved back to the coast at Buena Vista. We found ourselves a place to stay at Los Barriles, which had the biggest concentration of Americanos we'd seen the whole trip, excluding Cabo San Lucas. Very few womenfolk, probably because the place is entirely geared around sport fishing, which does tend to be a mainly blokes pursuit. So, the fat old American men with the enormous moustaches toddle on down to the beach in the morning, and are collected by whichever boat they're giving their dollars to. They're then taken out into the Sea of Cortez, where they catch a lot of fish. When they return, the fat Americans are unloaded first, and stand around watching skinny Mexican boys unload the day's catch and carry it to waiting pickup trucks. Especially large fish are weighed at the nearby game fishing club*. We saw only one such fish - a yellowfin tuna which we guesstimated weighed somewhere in the vicinity of 200 pounds - the vast majority of the critters whose lifeless carcasses we saw hauled from the boats were albacore tuna around 1-2ft long.

The room we nabbed was upstairs, with an ocean-facing balcony that caught the breeze wonderfully. We needed it, as it was pretty blimmin hot. We swam in both sea and pool, attempted table tennis and frisbee action, and ended up playing 500 while drinking pina coladas on the seawall. The evening saw not only more cards and significant lizard activity, but also beach walking and some swimming, possibly involving no pants.

NZ's last group stage match at the World Cup the next morning at 8, and we were at a bar. Drinking water. They didn't do breakfast, so by the time the referee blew time on NZ's participation in the tournament we were hungering. And as it turned out, the place we`d stayed at DID do breakfast, and did so really really well. The deliciousness was moving, and then so were we - northwards again, then back to the west for an hour, back to Todos Santos, and back to the Hotel California.

* = This place looked awesome from the beach at night, as its large covered deck was festooned with lanterns in a multitude of shapes, sizes, and colors.

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